Thaipusam: For the Faithful, but not for the Faint-hearted

Attending Thaipusam was a very fortunate coincidence since KL was just a transit stop for me. It was only until a week prior to my departure that I knew about the event. Friends in Couchsurfing warned me to avoid the festival if possible because of the volume of people. Out of curiosity, I checked out what is there to see and it made me eager to go witness it firsthand.

Thaipusam is a festival celebrated by the Tamil community during the full moon. It commemorates Parvati giving Murugan a spear to vanquish the demon Soorapadman. Lord Murugan is the large golden statue found outside Batu Caves. Millions of devotees gather annually to pay tribute and sacrifice to Murugan at Batu Caves.

Kavadi Attam is the ceremonial sacrifice of devotees during Thaipusam.

Kavadi Attam

Kavadi Attam is the ceremonial sacrifice of devotees during Thaipusam for the worship of Murugan. Devotees start with 48 days of fasting and prayer as a form of cleansing. On the day of the festival, devotees shave their heads and undergo pilgrimage along a set route. In Batu Caves, the journey starts off at the nearby river and end at the temple on top of the caves. At the river, they bathe and prepare themselves for the burdens that they will carry on their pilgrimage. Preparation often involves putting oneself in a trance wherein they will be able to endure the pain from the burdens of piercing hooks on their skin or skewers on their cheeks.

Putting oneself in Trance for the pilgrimage. It usually involves smoking sticks of tobacco.

A burden of weight is given to the devotee either through carrying a silver jar filled with milk on their head or by carrying a kavadi, a decorated canopy carried on the shoulders. Some kavadis can weigh as much as 30 kg.

Skewers are placed on the cheeks, tongue, or lips

A variety of sacrifices can be seen during the event. It wasn’t similar to the ‘penitence’ being done in some parts of the Philippines wherein a small group re-enacts Jesus’ suffering. Almost every devotee attending Thaipusam willingly performed Kavadi Attam.

The largest cheek skewer I saw worn by this guy. Skewers longer than this were common years ago but were banned as to avoid accidents. The lady on the photo is also holding slippers with nails which was worn by a devotee in the river earlier in the morning.

Carrying the Kavadi to the temple. Each can weigh as much as 30 kg.

Bells are hooked on their backs to provide an added sound when they dance in their pilgrimage to the top of the caves.

Kavadi carriers not only climb up to Batu Caves barefoot, they also dance on their way. Carrying a heavy kavadi with hooks and skewers pierced on your body is no easy feat. Each devotee is accompanied by friends and family. They carry chairs for them to rest before continuing their journey. Drummers are also present in some groups as it invigorates the devotee to pursue their sacrifice.

friends and family support the devotee on their pilgrimage.

Drummers cheer to support the pilgrims’ journey.

Lord Murugan at Batu Caves. The Kavadis make their journey up towards the temple.

On the top of the caves, devotees patiently wait for their turn to enter the temple and present their offering. Inside the caves you can see a lot of tired pilgrims and tourists alike. The 272 step journey to the top along with thousands of others was a great feat on that day. For the devotees, it was their sacrifice for Murugan, while for the tourists it was an eye-opening experience of the Hindu faith.

Pilgrims line up for their turn to go in the temple.

I am grateful for the opportunity to have immersed with the Tamil community in KL through their festival. This is definitely an experience that I will forever treasure.